The session lasts about 90minutes - 2hours, sometimes more, sometimes less, depending on what's going on and the changes we need to make. Sessions are usually on a Saturday morning, but occasionally can be arranged during the week. Please contact to book. £90
On arrival, we'll get your bike set up in the turbo (Wahoo Kickr - both through axle and 9mm quick release available on site). Then we'll take a look at you.
The first assessment is to see if you are straight and level - it's pointless fitting a bike to a wonky person, unless you like it like that! We'll get you on the couch, discuss what's going on with you and give a quick Bowen treatment to remedy if necessary.
Then the fun begins.
Shoes - cleat position.
Saddle position - forward / aft / tilt
Bar height (headset height/spacers)
Bar reach (steam length)
All of the above 'tweaks' are performed on site, with exception of reach. For all adjustments, it's just a matter of loosening / tightening some bolts or where height is concerned, removing / adding a few spacers (available on site) to the headset. However, what I don't hold in stock is a myriad of stems at various lengths. It is however, the very last measurement we take, so I can advise what size to order should you want to. It also enables you to choose the stem you want. (They vary in spec and price wildly.)
My primary focus is you. I will assess you first to ensure you aren't holding any 'unhelpful' traits, (wonky pelvis is a prime example, usually manifesting as lower back / hip pain or tight calves for the avid cyclists...)
Further, I'm not a bike mechanic. but I'm very comfortable with bits of metal and carbon. My background, pre-Bowen, is aerospace engineering. I can make adjustments to your bike, but if it's your pride and joy and you're nervous, I'm more than happy for you to tinker yourself or indeed help to loosen those mud encrusted bolts!
In line with not being a bike mechanic, this isn't a bike shop either. I operate out of a garage with zero central heating. There aren't any bells and whistles, but we get the job done at a competitive price to reflect the above.
Many cyclists want to improve their performance, so ensure their machine is right for them, but it's much more than that.
If you wanted to go for a run, you wouldn't pick up any old trainers. You'd make sure they were the right size. It would be uncomfortable at best, to run in a size 7 if you were a size 9 and vice versa.
Bike fitting ensures that the bike you have, fits your body depending on the level of fitness you're at and discipline you partake. It's not just for the lycra clad, although this is obviously the main client base.
Two things of importance other than the bike, are your helmet (lid) and shoes.
Helmet - Please please please, consider a lid that has MIPS. This is a system that helps prevent concussive injury, i.e it slows down the impact to the brain. A standard lid, will protect you against impact, but is pretty pants with the high speed concussive injuries. MIPS has been developed to help prevent this type of injury. You have one brain - protect it! Some good brands are POC, Lazer and Scott, but ultimately it's the right fit that is more important, you need a snug fit that provides a slight suction / resistance as you lift the lid up / off.
Shoes - One question. With your hand, push open a stuck door.
Bet your fingers were spread wide and you didn't bind them together first. That's because you instinctively know, to be the most efficient and create the most pressure you needed the biggest area for the amount of force you could apply. (Basic maths: Force = Pressure x Area) So why is it, most wear skinny little shoes that crush our feet? Surely you want a wide shoe that is really roomy in the toe box (ball and toe area), allowing you to create the most pressure / power into the pedal with your available force/strength?
If you already have cycle shoes, take the insole out and stand on it, odds are that your toes overhang and you're driving your big toe into the middle of your foot. They are too small. A cycle shoe should be really snug around the rear and mid foot to reduce the amount of movement in the joints here, but wide through the fore foot so that you can really drive the power down.
The brand that's right for you will depend on your foot, but for 'Joe Average' Bont and Lake are a good place to start. (Road and MTB available)